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The El Rocío Pilgrimage, one of the biggest in the world and one with the largest crowds, has its origins in the
year 1653, when the Virgin of Las Rocinas was appointed Patron Saint of Almonte and it was decided to set aside a
feast day for her, which would be on 8th September. In 1758 that date was changed to the "second day of
Pentecost" and there was also a change to the Virgin's name, Rocinas, which became Rocío. Furthermore, because
of the Holy Spirit connection - the feast being during Pentecost - the Virgin was also given the name of
White Dove.
Carriages in El Rocío
(Pic: Centro de Estudios Rocieros)
Although the Pilgrimage properly speaking starts on the Saturday, the pilgrims begin this annual event by
travelling the pilgrims' trail (which forms part of the whole ritual). This takes a few days, during which time
they travel in each others' company, on foot, on horseback or in horse-drawn carriages, sleeping under the
stars, until they reach the village.
Many pilgrims say that "El Rocío is travelling the trail" (meaning that travelling the pilgrims' route is the
most important part of the pilgrimage) - because during those few days they travel in one another's company,
pray, sing, live together as a fraternity, and make their way towards the One for whom they feel such devotion.
The duration of the pilgrimage depends on how far the pilgrims' home town or village is from the Almontese
village of El Rocío, but it can vary from 1 to 7 days.
Each fraternity-party in the procession is led by a standard bearer carrying the emblem of the Virgin Mary's
immaculate conception, and comprises pilgrims on foot and on horseback, horse-drawn and mechanical traction
carriages, all-terrain vehicles ... Not only the brothers and sisters of the fraternity travel the pilgrims'
trail, but so also do many people who accompany the fraternity on its journey - physical, emotional and
spiritual - to the White Dove's village.
Pilgrims usually wear very characteristic, traditional Andalusian costumes: the men a short jacket and tight
trousers, suitable for horseriding, and the women a Flamenco costume; or a "bata rociera", which is a simpler
version of the former that is suitable for walking or horseriding; or a "falda rociera" (a light, flouncy skirt
typically worn on this pilgrimage). And, or course, not forgetting the tall boots, made in one piece.
There are several ways to get to El Rocío: the "Camino de los Llanos" (Plains Way), which is the oldest and
starts in Almonte; the Moguer Way, which is the one that most of Huelva's fraternities travel along; the
Sanlúcar Way, which crosses the River Guadalquivir at El Bajo de Guía and is the one travelled by the
fraternities from Cadiz; and the Seville Way, which is the one used by fraternities who come from or through
that province.
After the journey to get there, the pilgrimage begins at 12 noon on the Saturday with the Presentation of the
Fraternities, a ceremony which goes on until well into the night, and during which the different fraternities
which make the pilgrimage to El Rocío - in reverse order of the number of years since their foundation - pass
in front of the Shrine, paying their respects by presenting the Immaculate Conception emblem borne by their
standard bearer.
On that same night, at midnight, the Immaculate Conception emblem of the Parent-Fraternity is carried to
the Shrine in what is known as the Almonte Rosary ceremony. On the Sunday - Whit Sunday - at 10 a.m. the
Pontifical Mass is said in El Real del Rocío, which is next to the Sanctuary, and is where the Virgin was
crowned in 1919. That night, the Rosary is prayed; for this purpose, in the warmth coming from the candles,
the different fraternities make their way to El Eucaliptal - an immense area of level ground next to El Real
del Rocío, which is their gathering-place. From there the Immaculate Conception Emblem of Almonte is born to
the Shrine, which is bursting at the seams with people at that time.
Monday Pilgrimage
(Pic: Centro de Estudios Rocieros)
When the Emblem is borne into the Shrine (the timing of which is not known in advance), the Almontese jump the
railing to take their Patron Saint out in procession. Protectively surrounded by thousands of pilgrims, the
Virgin of El Rocío is carried through the village streets until after midday on the Monday, when she returns to
her Shrine, signalling the end of the Pilgrimage.
From this time onwards, the fraternities start on the journey back to their localities and on the countdown to
another visit to see the White Dove.
But besides participating in the acts of devotion, in El Rocío the pilgrims sing, dance, eat, drink, have fun...
and make a good display of the open, joyful nature of the people of this land.
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